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Monte Argentario, situated on the Tyrrhenian coast about 150 kilometers north of Rome, is a rocky, peninsular promontory linked to thè Tuscan mainland by two sandy spits and a man-made causeway. Geography favors its climate: mild winters, below average rainfall and above average hours of sunshine. It is renowned for crystal-clean waters, jutting out from Italy's shamefully polluted coasts into the Mediterranean to wash in cleansing and life-giving sea currents. The Etruscans first settled the area. In
273 B.C. nearby Cosa (present day Ansedonia) was colonized by the Romans.
Lucius Domitius Ahenobarbus, a wealthy patrician friend of Cicero and
opponent of Julius Caesar and Anthony, owned all of Monte Argentario and
built a sumptuous villa on the neighboring island of Giannutri where its
ruins can be seen. |
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its hinterland; the ensuing State of the Presidi chose easily defended, lagoon-locked Orbetello as their stronghold. Recently, in the 1960's and 70's, Monte Argentario was the "in" place, a playboy's paradise. The flighty jet-set have migrated, but history and Nature's heritage still harbor here. A magical vision rises round the turn in the road to Ansedonia: the cairn, mirror-like water of the Orbetello lagoon and the imposing mass of Monte Argentario as a dramatic backdrop to the fortress crowned hills over Porto Ercole. Past Orbetello, skirting the lagoon and across the causeway towards Porto Santo Stefano, about two kilometers on is the junction (signposted in yellow, indicating a location of historical or panoramic interest) leading to Punta Telegrafo and the Passionist Monastery. On the slopes of the hill, the Monastery is a sort of boundary in the trees as they change abruptly to sweet chestnut woods. The summit is Punta Telegrafo, about 650 meters above sea level and used for television, radio and telecommunications transmission. The view is staggering, especially on a crisp winter day. Landward lies the lagoon, cradling Orbetello. Encircling the stili water basin, and separating it from the surging sea, are two strips of pine-wooded sand spit; whiffs of pine scent waft up to the look-out post. Beyond the rugged Mediterranean scrub of Monte Argentario rise the islands of Giglio and Giannutri. In good weather the view expands over the open sea beyond Giglio to the fabled, jagged form of the Isle of Montecristo; to the north is Elba, to the west, sometimes silhouetted against the setting sun, is Corsica. In spring and early autumn, Punta Telegrafo abounds with wild cyclamen. In autumn artubus bushes flanking the road are loaded with brightly colored berries. Monte Argentario offers many other joys to nature lovers: over 20 species of indigenous |
 Porto Ercole with the Spanish fort |
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wild orchids flourish here. Some can be found easily growing along the roadside; others are more of a challenge to find. Porto Santo Stefano, the area's commercial center, has a big fleet of fishing boats, accompanied by swarms of eager gulls hovering and diving to snatch an easy prey as the fisherman drag in their nets, freeing them of small fry and algae. Porto Santo Stefano is the door to Giglio and Giannutri; both are well worth visiting. The Strada Panoramica winds out of the town and along the coast to Cala Piccola, a tiny natural harbor which, although slighty spoilt by recent speculative development, is still an eye-dazzling rocky inlet. Twisting down from the Saracen tower |
(cleverly turned into a luxury hotel) the road is closed: it belongs to a private consortium. However the best view is from above. Over the hill to the right, on the main road towards Le Cannelle and l'Isola Rossa, the plunging southern coast lays out a sumptuous vista. The eye stopper here is a triangular pinnacle of rock, Isola Rossa. Here some of the finest and architecturally most harmonious villas of the whole Argentario region are built. Good architecture blends with spot-on landscaping, bou-gainvillaea flourish in oases of trees and green lawns amidst the rocks. Try driving along the Panoramica on the rough unpaved part which completes the round trip to Porto Ercole. This road can be perilously primitive after heavy rain, but the view of the |
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hilltop fortresses around Porto Ercole and across the wide bay of Feniglia to the rocky headland of Ansedonia is worth the bumps. Porto Ercole is built around a natural inlet and the old town nestles in the hillside under a stern Spanish fort, La Rocca, recently restored and converted into luxury apartments but open to visitors by appointment. (One historical sidelight: the painter Caravaggio died here of sun fever in 1610). Just beyond the town another natural harbor, which was used for commerciai vessels in Etruscan and Roman times, has been closed off to forma sophisticated yacht marina, Cala Galera. The marina is active all year and in winter there are twice-monthly regattas. The Argentario coast and islands are
popular with sub-acqua enthusiasts for the clear waters, the variety of
under-water topography, frequent finds of shipwrecks, and a wide range of
Mediterranean flora and fauna, including prized red coral. The area is
considered of such natural interest that it has been designated as a
protected zone by the newly formed Italian Ministry of the Environment.
There are several near-by land areas of parallel ecological interest which
have already been so protected. |
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 Flower-like polyps of soft coral Ancient capital in Giannutri (right) |
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